Summer
is here! A time for renewal. At Bilkent University, our spring semester ended
in May, and graduation took place on June 11.
My
barber, Ramazan, who goes under the professional name of Ramses, and who for
unknown reasons has taken to calling me “Devlet Ağabey” (lit. “Older brother State”; see note below), has already
shed several kilos and has begun an exercise program.
I, too,
have started my own summer exercise program, a brisk walk early in the
morning, while the air is still cool and
the campus very quiet.
Our car
has just passed its bi-annual inspection, always a traumatic moment because of
its age – 34 – even if it is a sturdy Mercedes – and because the inspection
carried out for several years now by TüvTürk, a private company, is serious, in
contrast with the almost comic sign-offs of yesteryear.
First
step: car taxes had to be paid up. I went to the tax office in Ulus where, to
my enormous surprise, not a soul was waiting. I walked right up to the window
and paid.
Big
smile: “Are you related to Bill Gates?”
I
have been asked this question countless times, although never before in a
Turkish government office. Because I do have a brother named Bill Gates who
happens to be in computer software, my answer always has to be qualified.
For
a speedy return to my office, I hailed a taxi at a nearby stand. The driver had
a beard and a skullcap, signs of a pious Muslim. Before I pulled the door shut,
I noticed an empty Efes Pilsen beer bottle in the door’s compartment.
“Oh!” I
exclaimed.
“Where did that come from?” my pious driver
asked.
A fellow
taxi driver quickly whisked it away and off we went.
Step two:
inspecting the car. We left it with our garage while we were in Cyprus for a
week. The garage promised to make necessary repairs, obtain the certificate for
exhaust emissions (another cause of anxiety), and take the car to the TüvTürk
inspection site. All would be finished by our return.
Except it
wasn’t. The inspection was refused, not because of serious defects with the car
itself, but because the registration card said the car uses “benzin” (gasoline)
when it should have said “dizel” (diesel). This mistake must have been made
four years ago, when the card had to be retyped to correct the color of the car,
from “white” to “blue & white.” Two years ago, the problem was the presence
of a tow-hook, not noted on the registration card. The garage removed the hook
and the car passed, but the mistake about the fuel was not noticed.
Correcting
a registration card involves a trip to the Emniyet Sarayı, the imposing central
police station, where a large section is devoted to car matters – registration,
driving licenses, etc., the only place in this city of nearly 5 million to take
care of such business. Typically dozens
of men and a handful of women mill around nervously as they wait their turn.
Fortunately, machines now give numbers for the line. This has revolutionized the
process of waiting. Standing in an orderly line was not a Turkish cultural
trait. In the old days, people would swarm the counter, pushing and elbowing
and shouting to attract the attention of the civil servant. What was a proper, well-bred WASP to do? I always got there in the end, but it was
always an experience to dread.
Marie-Henriette,
the official owner of the car, by now an experienced veteran of TüvTürk
inspections, managed to get the registration card duly changed without much
hassle. Request submitted one day; card ready for pick-up the next. The
following day, the third day after our return from Cyprus, she drove the car to
the TüvTürk station, showed the new registration card and the inspection
report, and the final, crucial approval was granted.
The car
is now good for two years!
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Language
notes:
(1) “Ağabey,” pronounced “abi,” is the typical way of addressing an older brother; also used, says my dictionary, “in addressing a respected man a little older than the speaker.” Devlet, meaning “state,” as a first name is rare, but familiar in today’s Turkey because of Devlet Bahçeli, the leader of the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).
(1) “Ağabey,” pronounced “abi,” is the typical way of addressing an older brother; also used, says my dictionary, “in addressing a respected man a little older than the speaker.” Devlet, meaning “state,” as a first name is rare, but familiar in today’s Turkey because of Devlet Bahçeli, the leader of the Nationalist Movement Party (MHP).
(2)
WASP = “White Anglo-Saxon Protestant.” Oxford English Dictionary: “A member of
the American white Protestant middle or upper class descended from early
northern European settlers.” Funk &
Wagnalls Dictionary: “Sometimes used contemptuously to refer to members of the
dominant socio-economic class in the U.S.”
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